ADVENTURES IN SOUTH EAST ASIA

10/17/2017

Hong Kong, Republic of China

LEAVE // 09.29.2017 | 19:59 PM PST | PORTLAND, OREGON
ARRIVE // 09.30.2017 | 07:30 AM UTC | HONG KONG, CHINA
TRANSPORTATION // AMERICAN AIRLINES & ALASKA AIRLINES
LAYOVER // LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA // 3+ HOURS
HOTEL // COURTYARD MARRIOTT

Hong Kong, where there are millions of people crammed into a city no larger than Manhattan. Its such an exciting, lively, and vibrant city for many reasons that are hard to put into words. This was the first stop in our 17 day Asia tour. Lets begin.

Day 1

MONGKOK LADYS MARKET
With over 100 stalls of bargain clothing, accessories, and souvenirs, the Ladie's Market on Tung Choi Street provides a chance to practice your haggling skills. Despite its name it is not only for the ladies, but here you will find a wide variety of men's clothing, home furnishings, watches, cosmetics, electronic gadgets, trinkets, and toys. You don't need to be just in the market for a purse or nylon stockings. You can find just about anything here.

The market gets going around noon and stays open as late as midnight. If you visit early then stand and shop owners will likely be in the process of setting up. At night the market gets crowded and is quite lively.
CLOCK TOWER
The historic clock tower, built in 1915 and the last remaining piece of the demolished Kowloon-Canton Railway terminal, is one of the most famous buildings in Tsim Sha Tsui. The clock tower is located at the waterfront of the South Eastern end of the Kowloon Peninsula, close to the Kowloon Public Pier and the Tsium Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier.
TSIM SHA TSUI PROMENADE
The Avenue of the Stars and the Promenade that runs along the tip of Kowloon's waterfront is supposed to be one of Hong Kong's most spectacular walks. Unfortunately, the Avenue of the Stars was under construction when we visited, but the Promenade lived up to expectations.... minus the photo-op with Jacky Chan and Bruce Lee handprints and statues, along with many other Hong Kong stars.
NATHAN ROAD
Nathan Road is the oldest road in Kowloon, with the first section completed in 1861. The road starts just below Boundary Street in Mongkok and continues all the way to Tsim Sha Tsui's waterfront. Today it's one of the most popular commercial roads in Hong Kong and visitors can easily get some of their shopping done with a wide range of budgets.
VICTORIA HARBOUR
The Victoria Harbour consists of a constant flow of traffic on the water (ships, barges, boats, and ferrys) which could be considered the lifeline of Hong Kong. Its easy and convenient to take a harbour cruise as a quick mode of transportation to get from one side to the other or to take in a breathtaking view of the city. We walked around the harbour a few times before we chose to take the Star Ferry across the harbour the third day.

Day 2

TIAN TAN BUDDHA (BIG BUDDHA)
Located on Ngong Ping Lantau Island in Hong Kong, the Tian Tan Buddha is the central figure of the Po Lin Monastery and one of the top sightseeing attractions in Hong Kong. The easiest way to get to the right spot is to take the MRT to the Tung Chung stop. At this point you will have three options:

--> Cable Car: Takes about 20-25 minutes (not including the line) and costs $16-20 USD
--> Bus: Takes 30-40 minutes and costs $2.50 USD
--> Hike: Takes 2.5+ hours and is about 6 miles, free

Remember to take water, regardless which option you choose, and even if you are not feeling the 6 mile hike, you will still have 268 steps to the Big Buddha platform. Don't underestimate this climb, especially on a hot and humid day (like when we visited). Go slow, take your time, and use the frequent stops as an opportunity to drink water and take photos of the scenic area and approaching Buddha.

Once you reach the platform, you'll notice immediately six additional statues facing the Buddha, each with one knee up. These statues are known as "The Offering of the Six Divas" and are posed around it, offering flowers, incense, lamp, ointment, fruit, and music to the Buddha. These symbolize the six perfections of generosity, morality, patience, zeal, meditation, and wisdom, all of which are necessary for enlightenment.
TAI O'
After making your way back down the 268 steps from the Tian Tan Buddha and before venturing back down the cable car and venturing back to Hong Kong, find your way to the bus depot and take bus 21 to Tai O terminus (approximately 20 minutes ride). Preferably sitting vs standing. Standing while the bus is propelling down a windy road with a large drop off the side of the road, you start to wonder if you should have updated your will before heading out on this trip. What feels like eternity of holding onto whatever you can to prevent from being thrown around like a rag doll, you finally arrive at Tai O'.

Tai O' is a fishing community who’ve built their houses on stilts above the tidal flats of Lantau Island. These unusual structures are interconnected, forming a tightly knit community that literally lives on the water.

Day 3

THE PEAK
Out of all the research I did prior to heading to Hong Kong the number one suggestion was if there was one thing you could do in Hong Kong, go to The Peak. If there were many things to do, still go to The Peak. Unfortunately, in the high heat and humidity and after multiple attempts, the line was over 3+ hours long. This was a heat stroke waiting to happen. My advice, still go to The Peak but find a low "peak" hour... whatever that might be. Morning, afternoon, and evening did not work for us.

The Peak is the highest point on Hong Kong Island, this has been the city’s most exclusive neighborhood since colonial times and the views supposed to be spectacular.

Another note: The ticket line to stand in is a bit confusing. Make sure to look across the street from the ticketing office as that is where the queue actually is. The one on the same side as the ticket office is actually for the Madame Tussauds wax museum. There are no signs to direct you and by time you figure it out you may have been standing there for almost 45 minutes.

IFC MALL
IFC Mall offers you a high-end shopping and entertainment experience. Located in the business location of Central as well as being surrounded by the One and Two IFC towers, the mall can conveniently be reached by all means of transportation and contains more than 200 famous international brands and specialty department stores.
CAUSEWAY BAY
STAR FERRY
From taking a hour circular route around Victoria Harbour or one way trips across to different calling points such as Tsim Sha Tsui, Central, or Wan Chai, Star Ferry has various options to choose between. We chose a trip to Wan Chai, purchasing tickets on the day of departure from Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier and instantly boarding.
WAN CHAI
TRAM (DOUBLE DECKER)
The double decker tram, aka The Ding Ding, won't get you to your destination any faster than walking, but it does give you the chance to sit, relax, and have a look around as it moves at a slow pace and has many stops. Make sure to get a seat on the upper deck!

In addition to the double decker tram, there's also a double decker bus that will take you to the airport. Luckily we got the front seat, top deck, and when we go across the bridges or around corners it gives somewhat of a sense of riding a roller coaster. So worth it.

Hanoi, Vietnam

LEAVE // 10.04.2017 | 14:30 PM UTC | HONG KONG, CHINA
ARRIVE // 10.04.2017 | 15:35 PM UTC | HANOI, VIETNAM
TRANSPORTATION // VIETNAM AIRLINES // VISA ON ARRIVAL
HOTEL // TIRANT HOTEL

Arriving in Hanoi was not only a culture shock after spending three days in the busy city of Hong Kong, it was a shock to all senses. More to come on this topic (see Mid-Autumn Festival)

First to note, Hanoi doesn't have the public transportation like we had in Hong Kong. Depending on how quick you want to get to the hotel and how much you're willing to pay, you do have the option of taking a taxi or bus. We chose bus. We took the new express bus #86 from the airport, where stops aren't clearly marked and some may or may not be posted on any website. So plan to keep a map up on your phone and know the general area you should get off.

This was also the first moment I noticed the motorbikes coming into the picture. I'm not talking about a few here or there. I'm talking hundreds of motorbikes, everywhere, all directions. I saw this eight years ago in Bangkok, Thailand and two years ago in Beijing, China but I don't remember to this extreme. Many families were just piled onto one bike. A toddler standing on the floor of a vespa, with two parents and a baby smashed between them. Another had a baby asleep in a backpack (not a baby backpack either).

Leaving the bus and starting the 1/2 mile walk to the hotel was something else to be experienced. Having a roller bag, no sidewalks, food vendors washing their produce on the sides of the street, and motorbikes flying past was all to be forever engrained to memory. Went around a corner and the Tirant Hotel lit up like a Vegas casino. We have arrived.

Day 4

MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL
The Mid-Autumn festival is a special occasion bringing all family members together and giving them a time to stroll along Hanoi's colorful streets. Also known as Moon Festival, Harvest Festival, and Childrens Festival.

For an unknowing visitor that a festival was about to take place, venturing outside the hotel was about to be a claustrophobic nightmare. Thinking a local festival should be fun. Instead it took nearly two hours to walk less than 100 feet with hundreds of people crammed around you with barely an inch remaining to breath with vendor tables set up in the middle of the street, limiting the already non-existent room to walk even more. Hot and humid, sweat drenched. Being shoved from the back, unable to move, more and more people piling into the streets. Music blaring. Kids, so many kids, running between the limited gaps of legs. And not to mention the motorbikes STILL coming through the crowd from both directions! Wait, what?

Day 5
This was a tough decision moment. Stay in Hanoi and absorb, take in the attractions, and explore the city, or take a row boat down river to Tam Coc, Trang An, or Halong Bay. Both Hanoi and the river sites are supposed to be extremely picturesque, but after last nights Mid-Summer Festival I'm a little hesitant thats how crowded the city typically is. As enticing as it was to go down river, we decided to stay and give Hanoi a chance. What this also means is we'll be returning to Hanoi again in future, specifically to explore the caves, rice paddies, and villages down river.

HOAN KIEM LAKE (TURTLE LAKE)
"Legend claims in the mid-15th century Heaven sent Emperor Ly Thai To a magical sword, which he used to drive the Chinese from Vietnam. After the war a giant golden turtle grabbed the sword and disappeared into the depths of this lake to restore the sword to its divine owners, inspiring the name Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Restored Sword)."

Hoan Kiem Lake is a great place if you're looking to get away from the noise and pace of the city. Peaceful and quiet, the lake surrounds Ngoc Son Temple, a pagoda sitting in the center on a small island. Allowing you to get lost in thought as you walk around the lake, forgetting about an encroaching city around. Just a peaceful pagoda and its moat.
TRAIN STREET
There's a residential area in old quarter that a speeding train passes through twice a day. Just moments before there are children playing and women cooking on the tracks, only to quickly rush inside before the train passes just inches from their doorsteps. Many websites will give times of 3:30pm and 7:00pm, others will say 4:00pm, locals will tell you 3:00pm of when the train will pass. My suggestion, get there early. Camp out. Take a ton of photos. Keep a look over your shoulder as the train will sneak up on you with little warning and have your camera ready at all times.

PRESIDENTIAL PALACE
The Presidential Palace was intended for Ho Chi Minh's official residence, but the leader declined and lived in a traditional stilt-house instead. Visitors can pay to visit the grounds of the palace (not inside the palace), so we opted out and took photos from a distance. It was quite entertaining to watch though. The guards enforce strict rules to ensure you don't walk anywhere near the entrance gate, on the sidewalk around the palace, and no loitering. This is all done without yelling, just blowing their whistles constantly. As if the whistle will be less disruptive, sound wise.
HO CHI MINH MAUSOLEUM
Just a short walk from the Presidential Palace is the the final resting place of the Vietnamese Revolutionary leader, Ho Chi Minh. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, which is also located across from the Ba Dinh Square thats composed of 240 patches of grass divided by intersecting concrete pathways, is closed except in the mornings where it is open to the public to pay their respects to the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh. We missed the viewing since we visited in the afternoon, but did get to see the changing of the guards which always fascinates me. Almost like a well choreographed dance, but with serious consequences if you miss a step.
ONE PILLAR PAGODA
Follow along the path around the back side of Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and you'll find yourself among vendors lined along the path selling trinkets and food. Most of all, you'll stumble upon the One Pillar Pagoda, nestled in a park. It doesn't look like much at first, but as you walk around you can't help but take notice to the structure and shape. My first thought was another pagoda had a moat, but then you notice its symmetry starts to look like a flower growing up out of a lotus pond.
OLD QUARTER
Old Quarter consists of a maze of streets dating back to the imperial times. It's considered Hanoi's present-day chaos. Here you'll experience being jostled by passing motobikes, crowds, cyclos, and hawkers with shoulder-poles of hanging fruit and vegetables. This is definitely a place that grows on you as you spend more time there. And of course, this is where our hotel was centrally located.

Old Quarter is where you will find Hoan Kiem Lake, Dong Xuan Market, St. Joseph Cathedral, Hoa Lo Prison (used for U.S. prisoners during Vietnam War), and one attraction I really wanted to see but ran out of time, Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre. Again, another reason I will be back to Hanoi.
TUONG DAI VUALE THAI TO
Taking a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake we ran across this little gem of a temple that was tucked away in a beautifully kept garden. This isn't on any list of "top attractions" list of Hanoi, but worth a walk through. With so much traffic and noise outside its walls, its a peaceful and tranquil escape.
DONG XUAN MARKET
Hanoi’s largest covered market Dong Xuan mainly sells bulk food items, clothing, and accessories targeted towards locals and not really a tourist market, but you can still come through to simply experience a typical Asian wet market. From fresh and live fish and produce on the ground floor. Clothing, staple trinkets, and souvenirs on the upper floor.
TEMPLE OF LITERATURE
The Temple of Literature (Imperial Academy) is a place of study rather than a religious landmark and is made up of a lake of literature, the Well of Heavenly Clarity, turtle steles, pavilions, courtyards, and passageways. The temple is a short stroll from Ba Dinh Square and close to the Presidential Palace.

Getting to the airport was somewhat of an adventure, considering the airport express bus #86 doesn't have marked bus stops and its somewhat of a guessing game based on the website. So we headed out early to give extra time for a few wrong turns. 7am, walking through Old Quarter, as shops were setting up and women are crouched on the side of the road and in doorways washing produce and meat for the day. We weren't sure at first if we were standing at the right bus stop, again because its not clearly marked, but eventually the bus arrived and we were off to the airport.

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

LEAVE // 10.06.2017 | 10:15 AM UTC | HANOI, VIETNAM
ARRIVE // 10.06.2017 | 12:10 PM UTC | HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM
TRANSPORTATION // VIETNAM AIRLINES
HOTEL // ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

Oh! We are back to a big city feel. Not usually my preferred to visit, but still very interesting. We are now in Saigon, or now Ho Chi Minh City, which has undergone many name changes and remains the largest city in Vietnam. The city has an old meets new charm, big city with a small city vibe, chaos and fast-paced but laid back, and then you have the architecture. Pagodas and Buddhist temples, mixed in with Colonial structures, and surrounded by skyscrapers and shopping malls. Slightly confusing at what theme they were trying to go with, but it seems to work.

Day 6

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL BASILICA OF SAIGON
After previously seeing the Notre-Dame de Paris and Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal, this one isn't as breathtaking since it seems to sit in the middle of a street as an island vs Paris and Montreal have them positioned in the middle of large squares, but the grandness of the cathedral is still great and holds to a similar theme.
SAIGON CENTRAL POST OFFICE
As you're standing in front of the Notre-Dame Cathedral, look to your right, and you'll find yourself in front of the Saigon Central Post Office. As you enter its a fascinating glimpse into history. Constructed between 1886 and 1891 with arches, marble floors, and antique telephone boxes. To really take it all in, we decided to mail ourselves a letter "from past us to future us".... eight stamps later, all strategically placed on the envelope. After all it will probably get lost in the mail, but definitely worth the try and really awesome if it actually arrives. [Update - 11/17/2017 - the letter finally arrived! After frequently checking the mailbox, it finally made it. It's a little beat up, but we'll take it

INDEPENDENCE PALACE
BEN THANH MARKET
A massive, labyrinth like, market thats somewhat difficult to navigate and easily to get turned around. Avoid going during the hottest part of the day as the indoor market becomes humid and muggy, but definitely a great place for shopping whether your in the market for bamboo goods, arts, crafts, clothes, luggage, and much, much more.
SRI MAHA MARIAMMAN TEMPLE - VIETNAM
I didn't think anything of it at the time. A temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Mariamman. The outer wall of the Temple, above the main entrance, had a collection of interesting statues of different gods and goddesses like Mariamman, Vishnu, Brahma, and Ganesha. The typical rituals applied as to when you enter any Hindu temple. Take your shoes off, kneel, and pray.

I entered and stopped before the "take your shoes off after this point" sign as my feet were having a slight issue of swelling due to the humidity and were strategically bandaged for the sake of blisters. Not a toe untouched. So taking my shoes off would not have been my best choice and trust me, I was paying respect by not releasing the swollen sausages to the world and walking barefoot on a tiled floor that hundreds of bare feet had walked on that day alone.

Enough about that, back to the temple. You enter into a large open room that has a giant statue in the middle and flowers placed around with men sitting along the walls on either side of the room. One observation was all attention from both walls were on me. Watching as I made my way through the entrance, looked around, then out the exit. Maybe not many white females visit? Not sure, but I had Rockwell "Somebodys Watching Me" playing in my head at that moment.
OPERA HOUSE
BITEXCO FINANCIAL TOWER
Bitexco Financial Tower is the tallest building in Ho Chi Minh City. Nestled in the financial district and along the river. The 48th floor sky deck allows for a quite stunning view of the city and of the Saigon River. Once done, you can make your way up to the 50th and 51st floor restaurants where you can sit, have a drink, and listen to live music until a table opens up along the windows where you can take those selfies with the city lights in the background. Unfortunately the helicopter pad was closed to the public, where we were hoping we could step out on, but being on the 51st floor just below the pad was still quite a view.

As for the unique shape of the tower. I thought the tower looked like an airplane had taken a nose dive straight into the ground, but I guess its actually a lotus flower in a mature, blossomed state. I might have been slightly off.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

LEAVE // 10.07.2017 | 16:25 PM UTC | HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM
ARRIVE // 10.07.2017 | 17:30 PM UTC | SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA
TRANSPORTATION // VIETNAM AIRLINES // VISA ON ARRIVAL
HOTEL // BOREI ANGKOR

From the first moment you step off the plane you know you've arrived somewhere way different. While Rehan was searching for a local SIM, I sat outside and watched as men came out of the airport, smoking a cigarette, with their women trailing behind carrying all the luggage. After a few exchanges of words, I can only assume the men were telling them to hurry up.

I remember seeing Tuk Tuk's in Thailand. Small three wheeled vehicles that fly through traffic, and by getting in one you are taking a risk on arriving at your destination without dying in the process. So when Rehan asked if I wanted to take a Tuk Tuk from the airport I was a bit weary. Nevertheless, we flagged a nice fuchsia pink chariot down and started bartering. Of course, with me being the white skin that I am the fare was more than double. As we walked away, our fuchsia friend had a change of heart and agreed to our price. We piled in, secured our bags, and off we went. This Tuk Tuk was definitely quite different. It was some type of two bench-seat carriage, attached to the back of a motorbike. It was actually quite nice and pleasant.

Day 7
It wasn't too late when we finally arrived at our hotel and finished checking in. The need to find food was slowly creeping up on us and according to Google maps it wasn't too far to something called "Pub Street". After following the map we quickly came to the realization that the recent monsoon weather they had flooded many of the streets, made ponds out of some, and Google hadn't recognized the road no longer existed. Or maybe it still did exist, just under a large amount of water. Seemed like a story you would read about unknown travelers straying from the path, down a dark ally, off the beaten path, and getting mugged! I'm sure we read warnings against doing something like this. We did eventually make it to Pub Street. After walking through mud, a bit dirty, but shaking that off and now enjoying a meal at what will soon be our nightly destination.

ANGKOR NIGHT MARKET
Angkor Night Market is conveniently located a few streets away from Old Market, Noon Night Market, and Pub Street. The night markets here are a good place for souvenir shopping with a large variety to choose from.

After half hour of making our way through the narrow alleys passing by souvenir shop after souvenir shop, we emerged out the other end empty-handed. Even though we were more than halfway though our trip, we had limited space in our luggage and we didn't want to lug around more than whats necessary. As much as I wanted to buy, it was still too early. [Update - 10/08/2017 - I did eventually buy a couple pairs of pants due to a laundry situation. Which did not last long as they're not meant for that much walking or maybe not used to the friction of my American sized thighs. Either way, they did not make it home]
PUB STREET
The party hub of Siem Reap and walking distance from our hotel. Pub Street is a long pedestrian only road of bars and restaurants, cheap beer, loud music, and bright neon lights. A great location for people watching.

Day 8
There was a great amount of anticipation to get to this point of the trip. We were about to see Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world. Now, for clarification, it wasn't the religious aspect that attracted me to this. It was the grandness and complexity of it. Something that was constructed in the 12th century was still standing and this well preserved. I have a weakness for ruins like this. This was going to be a grand day.

We booked a Tuk Tuk for a full day and met our driver at 7am. After many days of studying the temple map, distance between temples, what to wear, what not to wear, packed lots of water, sunscreen, we were set. Most tourists go to Angkor Wat first, but our driver suggested to start at Bayon as there will be less people when you go in reverse order of the crowds. So we took his suggestion.

ANGKOR THOM
Angkor Thom is the capital city of the Khmer empire built at the end of 12th century. Within its walls are the remains of a number of temples and Palaces: Bayon, The Royal Palace, The Royal Terraces, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, Prasat Suor Prat, Preah Palilay, Tep Pranam, The Khleangs, Monuments 486 and 487, Prasat Chrung, and Preah Pithu Group.

To enter Angkor Thom at any of the five gates you will have to cross a bridge called a causeway. Each are lined with stone figures holding a large snake on either side. These figures represent 54 Devas, Hindu deity, on one side and 54 Asuras, demons battling Devas, on the other, each pulling a giant snake. Now since there are five entrances into the city of Angkor Thom, each by a bridge, that means it had a moat. And if you know me, know I'm infatuated by moats.
BAYON
As you approach, it doesn't look like much more than piles of stacked stones, but as you make your way to the upper levels, the magnificence unveils itself. Bayon is made up of 54 towers and around 216 faces carved into the stone which smile down at the swarms of tourists that have come to see them. Everywhere you go, they are smiling and watching you.

Carved into the walls surrounding the temple are bas-reliefs, illustrating the life and times of the Khmer people. These bas-reliefs are meant to be viewed in a clockwise rotation starting at the East gate. From soldiers marching off to battle, dead being carried back from battle, everyday life, victory of war, all circling back to the first panel of bas-reliefs.

One can easily spend their entire day at Bayon without going to any other temple. There is something to see at every corner and every direction you look. This place was truly awe inspiring and mind pleasing. Its mesmerizing.
TA PROHM
Unlike many of the other temples at Angkor, Ta Prohm has been mostly left as it was found as an example of what a forest can do. The temple is in a stronghold of trees as they have grown over and around the walls, roofs, chambers, and courtyards. Its crumbling towers and walls locked in a slow muscular embrace of a vast root system. It's kind-of poetic to witness a vulnerable ruin being slowly destroyed, with humanity first conquering nature, and nature once again conquering humanity.
TERRACE OF THE ELEPHANTS
BAPHUON
Built in the middle of the 11th century, prior to the construction of Angkor Wat, and located within the walls of Angkor Thom, Baphuon Temple is known as the world's largest jig-saw puzzle. A team of archaeologist, in an attempt to restore the Baphuon, took it apart piece-by-piece but their records were destroyed leaving experts with 300,000 stones to put back into place. After numerous attempts and 51 years later, the Baphuon was restored and reopened to the public in 2011.

The Baphuon is a three-tiered temple in a mountain shape. It takes just over an hour to walk around the entire grounds, including climbing up the steep stairs to the third tier. Also, did I mention it has a moat?
ANGKOR WAT
Last stop, Angkor Wat, translation "City Temple". Angkor Wat was built in early 12th century as a symbol to the Hindu god Vishnu and a representation of Hindu cosmology. Its made up of five inter-nested rectangular walls and, you guessed it, moats. The dimensions of the compound are aligned with the North and South axis, while the East and West axis are diverted by less than a degree, allowing for a 3-day anticipation of the Spring equinox. Quite impressive considering they did not have the technology we have today.

Heat exhaustion. Sweltering temps, full sun, and the moment you start sweating faster than you can drink water. At some point, it takes its toll on you. At first I thought I just needed to rest and drink more water. Then things started to get a bit blurry. Walking along, slurring words, dizziness, and nauseated. There's no escape from the heat once its taken its grasp on you. Especially, when visiting a temple the requires women to cover their legs and shoulders at all times. All that fabric starts to weigh you down. You can feel it just getting heavier and heavier.

Day 9
Sadly leaving today, but there was still one temple we didn't get to see. We woke early and met our Tuk Tuk driver for a "quick" trip to this last temple. We were on a time crunch, as we needed to be back at the hotel no later than Noon to shower, check-out, and head to the airport, but going to see the temple was definitely worth the risk. The road was much longer, about 45 minutes, and a lot rougher than the trek to Angkor Wat. And at this point I was almost recovered from the heat the day before. We came a little more prepared and doubled the amount of water we had with us. The cool fresh air also helped, as we flew down dirt roads, around large pot holes, and through small villages where many of the houses were on stilts due to the amount of rain fall they get and to avoid flooding. This drive alone makes me want to visit Cambodia again and explore even more that it has to offer.

BANTEAY SREI
Located away from the main monuments is the Banteay Srei temple and one of Angkor’s highlights. This temple contains the finest, most intricate carvings to be found in Angkor. Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of the Women' and is cut from stone of a pinkish hue. It is one of the smallest sites at Angkor, but what it lacks in size it makes up in stature. Make your way out the back of the temple and you'll come to a fork in the path. Go left and you'll be taken through a botanical garden. Go right and you'll come across a small reservoir where you can take a boat through the lotus pond. Both leading us back to where we first entered. We still had time, so we chose to take the boat for $5. As thunder rumbled above we were slowly guided across the pond, with the sound of the water lapping against the oars. Very serene. [Note - We did run back through the temple and also went left on the path through their 'Botanical Garden', which was kind-of a let down. Really glad we chose the boat ride]
PRE RUP
We found ourselves stopping at one final temple on the way back to Siem Reap. Time was ticking, but we're here so we might as well. Pre Rup, meaning 'Turning the Body' which refers to a traditional method of cremation. Ornate bas-reliefs adorn the walls and towers. And, yet again, the temple used to be surrounded by moats.

Now lets talk about the terrace. It can be difficult to scale. Its stairs are steep and we were advised to drink plenty of water before going up. After yesterdays escapade I opted out of climbing the stairs. But if you do decide to partake, be prepared for some thigh-burning stair climbing.

After we were dropped off the first day, Rehan had made arrangements with our Tuk Tuk driver later that evening to drop off laundry somewhere nearby. We were able to pick it up on the way back to the hotel which turned out to be less than a couple bucks. Really reasonable considering we had over a week of sweat drenched clothes that had taken on more than just an oder. We made it back at 11:45am, which gave us 15 minutes to shower, pack, and head down before our ride to the airport arrived.

Kuala Lumpar, Malaysia

LEAVE // 10.09.2017 | 14:55 PM UTC | SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA
ARRIVE // 10.09.2017 | 18:05 PM UTC | KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA
TRANSPORTATION // AIR ASIA
HOTEL // A LOFT

There's a weird vibe in Kuala Lumpur, which I'm unable to quite put my finger on it yet but there is definitely something there. Not sure if it has to do with the combination of Rehan, whom is a Pakistani, and myself, red hair and fair skin, but it was an unfriendly sense of our presence. My guard was up as soon as I stepped out of the airport as my spidey senses were on guard.

LITTLE INDIA
You immediately know when you have arrived in Little India. A close proximity to KL Sentral station. As soon as you step off the subway you immediately immerse into the bustling atmosphere, vast colors of the streets, saris, bangles, traditional Indian candies, sweets, and so on. Our visit fell within a few weeks prior to Diwali, Hindu festival of lights, which added to the decorations, flower garlands, and preparation for upcoming celebrations.

Day 10

BATU CAVES
Limestone caves located just North of Kuala Lumpur and made up of three main caves featuring temples of Hindu shrines. As you first approach, you can't help but notice the large statue of the Hindu God Lord Murugan, and then you notice the 272 steps you will need to climb to the top. Be cautious though, monkeys prey on helpless tourists and frolic around the caves. Do not carry food when climbing the steps (not even an energy bar in your backpack), do not make eye contact or smile at the monkeys, and keep hold of your belongings else you will find yourself, along with thousand other tourists, watching a monkey carry it away. After witnessing many monkeys attacking the backpacks of unknowing climbers, this is not a warning of what "could" happen, but a warning of what "will" happen if you ignore the warnings.

CHINATOWN | PETALING STREET
Petaling Street is the Chinatown of Kuala Lumpur, where the hustling and bustling never comes to an end. From food stalls, claiming best street food in Malaysia, and where shoppers can barter for clothes, souvenirs, electronics, and many imitation goods like handbags, wallets, and watches from brands like Nike, Adidas, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and so on. You never run low on various goods for cheap prices.
CENTRAL MARKET
SRI MAHA MARIAMMAN TEMPLE - MALAYSIA
Having a little deja vu. I swear I've seen this temple before, but back in Ho Chi Minh City. Another temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Mariamman. Above the main entrance a similar collection of statues of gods and goddesses. This time in Kuala Lumpur. Now I'm curious, are there more? Is this a chain?
PETRONAS TOWERS
Petronas Towers were once the tallest buildings in the world. Now, the worlds tallest twin structures at 88 stories and measuring 508 meters tall. Located in Kuala Lumpur city center, you can pay to go up to the skybridge that joins the towers at the 41st and 42nd floors. Then you will be taken up to the 86th floor to the observation deck where you can get an amazing view of the city and, as a bonus, learn of the towers history.

Don't get me wrong, Kuala Lumpur had a lot to offer. There was beauty all around us and it was an amazing city to venture through and experience. Unfortunately, besides the food poisoning that Rehan got again after visiting this city (twice he visited, twice he fell ill and spent half on the white throne), I couldn't shake that uncomfortable feeling I had when I first arrived. Kuala Lumpur is primarily Muslim. In this case, unlike many other Muslim cities I've visited, this was not a warm embrace. Men gawked at me in disgust, shoved, pushed, and despised my presence. Again, I'm still not sure if it was the combination of Rehan and I, or if it was only due to me, but my original instincts turned out to be accurate. I was not welcome here.

Singapore

LEAVE // 10.11.2017 | 12:30 PM UTC | KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA
ARRIVE // 10.11.2017 | 13:40 PM UTC | SINGAPORE
TRANSPORTATION // AIR ASIA
HOTEL // FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON SINGAPORE

As much as I was dreading the possibility of intense heat, especially after Cambodia heat a few days before, it was actually quite pleasant. Listening to Rehan's stories of last time he went to Singapore and it being the most extreme humidity that he has ever experienced, this was not the case for our visit.

While still on the plane, you can't help but notice the list of laws that are announced as you are about to land into Singapore. My favorite two were 1) Punishment by death if arriving into Singapore with drugs or drugs in your blood stream 2) Public caning if found littering, vandalism, or chewing gum. Wait what?! Chewing gum? That's a little extreme, but chewing gum is made of plastic and when disposed of will stay in a landfill FOREVER, but still... public caning?

Day 11

MARINA BAY
One of the first things you notice in the skyline of Singapore is Marina Bay Sands hotel. Right on the bay, to me the hotel looked like a cruise ship floating, but supposedly it was to resemble card decks from its casinos and the top deck has an infinity pool. On either side of the hotel are bedazzled, crystal pavilions, of the worlds largest Louis Vuitton boutique and two night clubs, Avalon and Pangaea, in the other. Both as floating islands, but connected to the hotel by underwater tunnels.

CLARKE QUAY
Clarke Quay is mostly famous for its waterside restaurants, bars, and clubs but the area has much more to offer. From boat rides on the Singapore River, which lies at the heart of the Quay, museums, the G-Max Reverse Bungy, and a 100-year-old Chinese Temple, Hong San See. The temple is comprised of a series of buildings, courtyards, and statues, making for a tranquil place even though it was under restoration when we visited.

MERLION PARK
Merlion Park is home to Singapore’s mythical beast, Merlion, which has the body of a fish and the head of a lion.
WATERFRONT PROMENADE
Just across for the Marina Bay Sands Hotel is the waterfront promenade, which allows you to walk around the entire bay, with many stops in between. Another spectacle is the light and water show that starts at 8pm nightly. We stumbled upon it as the stadium seating was filling up quick, so we ventured down in front and sat on the promenade, up close which turned out to be absolutely amazing. Its a beautiful symphony of music, water, and laser light show with visual projections against the mist. What is only a 15-minute show will feel like hours of water and lights, dancing to an orchestra. Very mesmerizing.

Day 12

SRI MAHA MARIAMMAN TEMPLE - SINGAPORE
Yet another Mariamman temple. Same grand entrance of gods and goddesses. Its confirmed. Definitely a chain. One difference on the Singapore location vs Ho Chi Minh City and Kuala Lumpar, this one is much grander.
THIAN HOCK KENG TEMPLE
LAU PA SAT HAWKER CENTER
GARDENS BY THE BAY
--> Cloud Forest:
--> Flower Dome:
--> Light Show:
--> Supertree Grove

Day 13

BOTANICAL GARDENS
NATIONAL ORCHID GARDEN
RAFFLES HOTEL

Day 14

LITTLE INDIA | ARAB STREET | CHINATOWN
Three areas we visited multiple times in our 4 days in Singapore.
1. Little India
  The repeated visit was primarily for the food. Yes, there are shops and stalls of Indian accessories and clothes. Trying on many and purchasing very few, but the bright colors and selection were vast and became very quickly overwhelming. What caught my attention most was the overpowering aroma of spices coming from one of the many food halls, and that is where I discovered the beloved dish "Dosa". A savory pancake-like made from fermented rice flower and ground lentils, ladled into a hot skillet and lightly fried into a large circular shape and served with as slew of spicy dipping sauces.
2. Arab Street
  Another street filled with shops and stalls, but again bringing us back again for the food. Instead of Dosa, Arab Street was known for their Biryani and kabobs.
3. Chinatown
  From the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple, the street market, Thian Hock Keng Temple, and many more. We found ourselves walking around this area daily, discovering something at every turn.

Macau, China

LEAVE // 10.15.2017 | 11:05 AM UTC | SINGAPORE
ARRIVE // 10.16.2017 | 01:15 AM UTC | HONG KONG, CHINA
TRANSPORTATION // MALAYSIA AIRLINE
LAYOVER // KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA // 7+ HOURS
HOTEL // COURTYARD MARRIOTT

Day 15
travel, layover

Day 16

MACAU

Trek Back Home

LEAVE // 10.17.2017 | 18:10 PM UTC | HONG KONG, CHINA
ARRIVE // 10.17.2017 | 21:01 PM PST | PORTLAND, OREGON
TRANSPORTATION // AMERICAN AIRLINES & ALASKA AIRLINES
LAYOVER // LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA // 2+ HOURS

Day 17
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